Chemical Peels for the Face

Chemical peels are a popular skincare treatment, they are effective in addressing various skin concerns. We introduced chemical peels for the face before in our facials post, in this post we will further investigate their types, benefits and what to expect. A report illustrated that in 2022, the global markets for chemical peels was valued at approx. USD 2.17 billion. By 2030 it is projected to reach approx USD 2.89 billion.

Chemical peels are used for skin resurfacing, different levels of treatment can be used for different concerns. Peels can be used to treat hyperpigmentation, acne scars, wrinkles and all over skin rejuvenation.

Chemical peels are an in-clinic treatment, where a trained skin care specialist will first assess the skin’s suitability. A low pH substance is applied to the area being treated. This results in the exfoliation of dead skin and stimulate new cell growth.

What Are Chemical Peels?

A skin care specialist uses a peeling agent to remove the damaged skin layers, triggering the growth of new cells, regeneration and remodelling the skin. There are two types of peeling agents, keratolytics and protein denaturants.

Keratolytics

Keratolytics disrupts the bods between the primary cells of the epidermis, making them shed. Examples of popular keratolytic agents:

• Glycolic acid – An alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) found in fruits. A neutralising agent is applied to cease its action during the peel.
• Salicylic acid – This is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), more lipophilic than glycolic acid, allowing it to penetrate more deeply into the skin. This makes it more suitable for acne and oily skin types.
• Jessner solution – This is a mixture of 14% resorcinol, 14% salicylic acid and 14% lactic acid dissolved in ethanol. This can be used for acne, textured or bumpy skin.
• Others keratolytic agents – 40% mandelic acid, combination of 20% salicylic and 10% mandelic acids, between 10% and 30% lactic acid, between 40% and 70% pyruvic acid, retinoic acid and resorcinol (derivative of phenol).

Protein Denaturants

• Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) – TCA is a popular peeling agent used for photo damage, dry scaly skin, dark spots, fine lines and acne scars. Results depend on the concentration used and the number of treatments.
• Phenol and croton oil – Phenol is a powerful ingredient, used in deeper chemical peels. Croton oil causes the skin to blister and peel, it enhances the peel giving an even result. A blend of phenol and croton oil can treat various conditions including, photo damage, scaly skin, acne scars and fine lines.

The treatment ranges from mild to deep treatments, depending on skin concerns. Lighter peels are effective for acne and hyperpigmentation and can make mild improvements to the texture of the skin. Medium peels go deeper, and can help with actinic keratoses, minor acne scars and shallow wrinkles. Deeper peels are used for severe acne and deep wrinkles.

Chemical peels for the face enhances the overall skin appearance, by improving skin texture, reducing fine lines and wrinkles and evening out the skin tone.

Types of Chemical Peels for the Face

Superficial (Light) peels

A light exfoliation using mild acids like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) to improve dull skin. AHAs are the base for a chemical peel, the AHA used is dependent on the skin type and the particular concern. AHAs include glycolic acid from sugar cane, lactic acid from milk, and citric acid from citric fruits.

Superficial peels target the top layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum. There is minimal downtime, skin should feel dry or tight and some people may have light flaking.

Some examples of Superficial peels:

1. Glycolic Acid 20 – 30%:
   • Obaji Blue Peel Radiance – also contains Lactic acid and Salicylic acid, great beginner peel, improves sun damage, acne, texture and skin tone.
   • SkinCeuticals Micropeel 30 – 30% Glycolic acid, promotes cell turnover tackles dull skin, early signs of aging and rough texture.
2. Lactic Acid 10 – 30%:
   • Dermalogica Pro Power Peel – Lactic Acid 30 – a mild exfoliation, suitable for dry or sensitive skin, hydrates and brightens the skin. Tailored treatments are provided when used in combination with other acids.
   • PCA SKIN Sensi Peel – also contains TCA (Trichloroacetic acid), soothes inflammation and evens out skin tone. This solution is suitable for sensitive skin types and darker skin tones.
3. Mandelic Acid – 20% or below:
   • BioRePeelCI3 FND – for sensitive or darker skin tones, helps with acne, mild pigmentation and texture concerns.
   • Medik8 Superfacial^TM Peel – beginner peel, very mild, improves skin dullness, and is often used in combination with other acids such as citric and lactic acids.

Medium Peels

Medium peels penetrate the epidermis through the papillary dermis into the upper reticular dermis. The peels contain trichloroacetic acid (TCA) or stronger AHAs. They address hyperpigmentation, acne scars and wrinkles. As these peels are stronger the skin can have mild to moderate flaking and redness for up to 7 days.

Some examples of Medium peels:

1. TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid):
   • Obaji Blue Peel – contains 20-30% TCA, this peel goes much deeper than the Obaji Blue Peel Radiance, helps with fine lines, sun damage and skin texture
   • The Perfect Derma^TM Peel – also contains TCA, Kojic and Retinoic acid, suitable for all skin types, treats pigmentation, melasma acne and aging, gives mild to moderate peeling.
2. Glycolic Acid (40-70%):
   • Image Skincare Perfection Lift Forte – 50% glycolic acid, also contains Lactic acid, Resorcinol and Retinol, used for medium depth resurfacing suitable for advanced aging and scarring.
   • NeoStrata ProSystem Glycolic acid peel – available at 40% strength and 70% strength, this can help with textural irregularities, moderate sun damage, fine lines and wrinkles.
3. Lactic Acid (40-60%):
   • Jessner’s Peel (Layered) – contains Lactic acid, Salicylic acid and Resorcinol, this combination addresses different skin concerns, for example melasma, acne and uneven skin tone.
   • SkinCeuticals Advanced Corrective Peel – aids with improving skin texture and discolouration.

Deep Peels

Deeper chemical peels address more profound acne scars, texture concerns and deeper wrinkles. The peels penetrate further into the reticular dermis, performed by a trained medical professional under sedation or anaesthesia and use a higher strength TCA, Phenol or Carbolic acid.

Some examples of Deeper peels:

1. Baker-Gordon Phenol Peel – Classic peel containing Carbolic acid (Phenol), it also contains Septisol and Croton oil. Used for severe skin laxity and deep scars and wrinkles, this peel targets the deepest part of the skin and can have have a downtime of 21 days.
2. TCA 50% Peel – For deep, severe acne scars, this high strength TCA has a downtime of up 14 days.

Deeper peels can cause permanent damage to the skin such as hypopigmentation, scarring and even infection. This makes them unsuitable for darker skin skintones and antiviral medications may be provided to prevent infections.

The risks involved have made deep chemical peels unpopular. An alternative is to have a medium depth peel in combination with a skin laser resurfacing treatment, for example, a CO2 laser with a Phenol and TCA blend. This helps achieve a similar result without the risk.